On Halloween morning, I drove with my daughter Ilinca to Hartford. We hoped to see Mark Twain's House under the first snow of the season. There was some snow on the east side, but the south side was shining glorious with morning light, and golden and copper leaves. The sun room looked like a real jewel. It is easy to see how Mark Twain spent so much time here. It looks warm and inviting - and it holds a mystery.